A Beginners Guide To Climbing Styles

Traditional, or trad, climbing is considered the original and most classic form of rock climbing. Unlike sport climbing, which relies on pre-installed bolts, trad climbing emphasises self-reliance and a deep respect for the natural rock.

• Self-Placed Protection: Climbers carry and place their own protective gear-such as nuts, cams, and hexes-into cracks, holes, and other natural features of the rock as they ascend. This gear is designed to be temporary and removed by the second climber, leaving the rock unchanged.

• Minimal Impact: One of the core values of trad climbing is to protect the rock from damage. Since no permanent bolts or anchors are left behind, trad climbing is often seen as a more environmentally friendly and “pure” approach.

• Historical Roots: Early trad climbers used whatever was available-wedging stones or even homemade nuts into cracks, then looping a rope or cord around them. The hope was that, in the event of a fall, the gear would hold fast and prevent a ground fall.

• Modern Advancements: Today’s trad protection is highly engineered, lightweight, and reliable. Modern cams and nuts have allowed climbers to attempt much harder and more complex routes than in the past.

• Technical Skill Required: Placing protection securely requires significant technical knowledge and experience. Climbers must assess rock quality, choose the right gear for each placement, and ensure that the protection will hold in the event of a fall.

• Risk and Reward: While modern gear has improved safety, trad climbing still carries inherent risks. Poorly placed protection or misjudging the rock can lead to serious consequences. This added challenge is part of what draws many climbers to trad.

• The emphasis on leaving no trace and relying on personal skill and judgment gives trad climbing a reputation for being the most authentic and respectful style of climbing.
• The need for problem-solving, route-finding, and gear placement makes trad climbing both mentally and physically demanding, offering a unique sense of accomplishment.

In summary, trad climbing is about adventure, self-sufficiency, and a close connection to the rock. For many, it represents the heart and soul of climbing.

Sport climbing is a popular and modern style of climbing that has transformed the way people approach rock faces. Unlike traditional (trad) climbing, which relies on climbers placing their own gear, sport climbing makes use of permanent bolts that have been drilled and fixed into the rock by previous climbers.

• Fixed Protection:
  • Bolts are drilled into the rock at regular intervals along the climbing route.
  • These bolts remain in place for all future climbers, providing reliable protection.
  • Climbers clip their rope into quickdraws attached to these bolts as they ascend.
• Enhanced Safety:
  • The fixed nature of the bolts means that the risk of protection failing is extremely low.
  • Climbers can take larger falls with confidence, knowing the bolts are designed to withstand significant force.
  • This makes sport climbing one of the safest forms of outdoor roped climbing.
• Accessibility:
  • Because the protection is already in place, sport climbing is more accessible to beginners who may not have the technical knowledge to place their own gear.
  • The presence of bolts also allows climbers to focus more on movement and technique rather than gear placement.
• Lightweight and Efficient:
  • Climbers need only bring quickdraws and a rope, rather than a full rack of trad gear.
  • This lighter load allows for greater freedom of movement and the ability to attempt more physically demanding routes.

• Psychological Freedom:
  • The security of fixed protection encourages climbers to push their limits, try harder moves, and take bigger risks.
  • Many climbers find this liberating, as the fear of gear failure is greatly reduced.
• Physical Challenge:
  • Sport climbing routes are often steeper and more physically demanding, focusing on athleticism and technical skill.
  • The emphasis is on powerful, dynamic moves and sustained sequences, which can be both exhilarating and exhausting.

• Relative Safety: The combination of strong, fixed bolts and straightforward protection systems makes sport climbing appealing to those seeking a safer introduction to outdoor climbing.
• Simplicity: With less gear to manage and fewer technical skills required for protection, climbers can concentrate on improving their climbing technique and enjoying the movement.
• Community: Sport climbing areas are often social hubs, with established routes and a welcoming atmosphere for climbers of all abilities.

Bouldering is one of the fastest-growing disciplines in the climbing world, attracting beginners and experienced climbers alike. Its appeal lies in its simplicity, accessibility, and the strong sense of community it fosters. 

Bouldering focuses on short, challenging routes-known as “problems”, that are typically climbed without ropes or harnesses. Instead, climbers rely on thick crash mats (bouldering pads) for protection in case of falls.

• Minimal Equipment Required:
  • All you need are climbing shoes, chalk, and a crash mat.
  • No ropes, harnesses, or complex gear systems are necessary.
  • This makes bouldering one of the most accessible forms of climbing for beginners.
• Low Barriers to Entry:
  • Little technical knowledge is needed to get started.
  • Many climbing gyms offer dedicated bouldering areas, making it easy to try for the first time.
  • Outdoor bouldering spots are often easily accessible.
• Short, Powerful Climbs:
  • Problems are usually no more than 4–5 metres high.
  • Routes are designed to be physically demanding and technically complex, often requiring powerful, dynamic moves and creative problem-solving.
  • Climbers can attempt the same problem multiple times, refining their technique with each try.
• Social and Community-Oriented:
  • Bouldering is highly social, with climbers often gathering around a single problem to share tips, encouragement, and beta (advice on how to complete a move).
  • It’s common for groups to work together to solve challenging problems, making it a great way to meet other climbers.

• Close to the Ground, But Not Risk-Free:
  • Although bouldering takes place at lower heights, falls are frequent due to the difficulty of the moves.
  • Thick crash pads are essential for reducing the risk of injury.
  • Spotters (other climbers who help guide a falling climber onto the mat) add an extra layer of safety.

• Skill Development:
  • Bouldering helps climbers develop strength, flexibility, and technique that translate well to other climbing styles.
  • Many climbers use bouldering as a key part of their training routine.
• Booming Competition Scene:
  • Bouldering competitions are growing in popularity, both at the local and international level.
  • The discipline is now featured in major events, including the Olympics.
• Versatility and Fun:
  • Bouldering is a great way to diversify your climbing skills.
  • Whether you’re looking to train hard or simply relax and have fun with friends, bouldering offers something for everyone.

• Beginner-Friendly: Easy to start with minimal investment and knowledge.
• Highly Social: Encourages group participation and shared problem-solving.
• Challenging and Rewarding: Offers quick feedback and a sense of accomplishment with each completed problem.
• Great for Fitness: Builds strength, endurance, and mental focus.

Bouldering’s unique blend of accessibility, challenge, and community makes it an excellent choice for anyone looking to get into climbing or take their skills to the next level.

Ice and mixed climbing are advanced and exhilarating forms of climbing that take you beyond rock and into the frozen world of winter ascents. These styles demand both specialised equipment and a strong understanding of technique, weather, and safety.

Ice climbing involves ascending frozen waterfalls, icefalls, or icy rock faces using technical tools and protective gear. This discipline is typically practiced in winter when ice formations are stable and accessible.

• Ice Tools: Short, curved ice tools (not to be confused with longer ice axes for mountaineering) are designed for vertical ice, allowing precise placement and efficient movement.
• Crampons: Spiked attachments for your boots provide critical grip on ice, enabling you to kick into and stand securely on steep, slippery surfaces.
• Mountaineering Boots: Insulated and stiff-soled boots are essential for warmth and to support crampons properly.
• Ice Screws: These are used to create anchor points in the ice for protection as you climb.
• Protective Clothing: Layered clothing, including a hardshell jacket and pants, warm gloves, and a belay parka, keeps you warm and dry in harsh conditions.
• Helmet and Harness: Standard climbing safety gear, plus a helmet to protect from falling ice.
• Gloves: Multiple pairs are recommended: dexterous gloves for climbing and warmer mitts for belaying and standing around.

• Movement:
  • The "caterpillar technique" is a foundational movement pattern for beginners, involving stable placements of tools and crampons, straight arms, and small, controlled steps5.
  • Proper technique is crucial for efficiency and safety, as poor placements can lead to fatigue or falls.
• Safety:
  • Even with the right gear, ice climbing is inherently risky due to changing ice conditions and exposure to cold. Mastery of anchor building, self-arrest, and route assessment is essential.

Mixed climbing is a hybrid discipline that involves climbing routes with both ice and bare rock, often encountered in changeable winter conditions or on alpine routes. In the UK and other regions, it’s common to encounter sections of exposed rock between patches of ice.

• Dual Terrain:
  • Climbers use ice tools and crampons on both ice and rock, adapting techniques as the terrain changes.
• Equipment:
  • The same technical gear as for ice climbing is used, but climbers may also need rock protection like nuts and cams for sections where ice screws cannot be placed.
• Techniques:
  • Specialised moves such as:
    • Hooking: Placing the pick of your ice tool over rock edges or into cracks.
    • Torqueing: Twisting the pick into cracks for secure holds.
    • Stein Pulls: Inverting the tool and wedging it upward in a crack, then pulling down on the handle for upward movement.
    • Figure-Four: Hooking a leg over your arm or tool for extra reach and stability on steep or overhanging sections.
  • Mixed climbing often requires creative use of both tools and hands, especially on rock.

• Physical and Technical Demands: Ice and mixed climbing require exceptional upper body strength, stamina, and precise technique.
• Weather and Route Assessment: Understanding ice quality, rock stability, and changing weather is vital for safety and success.
• Risk Management: Both disciplines carry significant risks, including falling ice, gear failure, and rapidly changing conditions.

• Expands Climbing Horizons: Offers new challenges and stunning environments beyond traditional rock climbing.
• Skill Development: Enhances technical proficiency, adaptability, and mental toughness.
• Booming Community: Both disciplines have vibrant communities and growing competition scenes, especially in regions with reliable winter conditions.

Ice and mixed climbing are for those seeking adventure, technical mastery, and the thrill of climbing in some of nature’s most dramatic settings. Whether you’re drawn by frozen waterfalls or the challenge of transitioning between ice and rock, these styles offer a unique and rewarding experience for dedicated climbers.